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CNY in Zhangjiagang's ICH: Fenghuang Tofu

LMS
chinadaily.com.cn|January 22, 2025

The word "tofu" sounds like "all blessings" in Chinese, making it a cherished cuisine of Chinese New Year in Zhangjiagang. For many locals, savoring tofu or tofu pudding has become a beloved tradition during the festive season.

As Chinese New Year approaches, the renowned handmade tofu workshop in Tianzhuang Ancient Street, Fenghuang town, comes alive with activity. This workshop, part of Zhangjiagang's first batch of intangible cultural heritage workshops, has been run by 75-year-old craftsman Pang Zhenghua, who begins his day at the crack of dawn.

In the quiet morning, Pang meticulously places soaked soybeans into a traditional stone mill, grinding them into creamy soybean milk. The freshly ground liquid is poured into a large pot and stirred continuously as its aroma intensifies, wafting throughout the courtyard.

When brine is added, the soybean milk slowly begins to curdle. Pang transfers the delicate curds into specially designed molds, where they take the shape of tofu. Using a century-old press, he carefully removes the excess moisture, revealing the firm yet tender texture of the finished product.

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Pang Zhenghua makes tofu in his workshop. [Photo/WeChat account: zhangjiagangfabu365]

By early morning, eager customers line up at the shop to enjoy this handcrafted delicacy. While tofu blocks are a staple, the tofu pudding is the true highlight. Topped with pickled vegetables, dried shrimp, sesame oil, and a sprinkle of the shop's secret seasoning, it captures the essence of the Chinese New Year for the locals.

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Tofu pudding made in Pang Zhenghua's workshop. [Photo/WeChat account: zhangjiagangfabu365]

"From the first to the seventh day of the Chinese New Year, my shop is bustling," Pang said. "We see both loyal customers and tourists visiting. They come for the taste of our stone-milled tofu, which reminds them of their childhood," he added.

He used to carry tofu pudding on a shoulder pole to sell in the village. Over time, the pole was replaced by a bicycle, then a tricycle, and now he proudly runs his workshop.

This simple yet profound tradition reconnects us with the earthy warmth of craftsmanship and the comforting flavors of home. It reminds us that amid the rush of modern life, the taste of Chinese New Year—rooted in our hometown and shared through generations—remains timeless and unforgettable.